in the wilderness

Family-friendly John Muir Trail

Photo courtesy/Zheng Zhengjin

▲Camped overnight by Qiandao Lake. The sun rises, and the golden sunshine embraces the mountains. John. Muir once described the Sierra Nevada Mountains as "mountains of light."

John Muir Trail

以美國自然保護先驅約翰‧繆爾為名的約翰‧繆爾步道（John Muir Trail，簡稱JMT），被公認為美國境內風景最秀麗的高山步道，沿內華達山脈，由優勝美地國家公園往南延伸至美國本土最高峰—海拔4421米（14505英呎）的惠特尼峰（Mount Whitney)，全長約339公里（211英哩），大部分路徑與太平洋山脊步道（Pacific Crest Trail¹）重疊。

Except for a simple and dilapidated John Muir refuge stone house at Muir Pass, which is used for travelers to rest, there are no houses on the whole journey. Hikers must camp overnight in the wild, bring their own food, and find a hidden place to dig a hole to use the toilet. And there is almost no cell phone signal.

Most of the trails are above 2,500 meters above sea level. There are many peaks above 3,000 meters along the way, and they pass through three national parks along the way. Hikers must carry at least ten kilograms of food, clothing, housing, and transportation equipment on their backs, and carry heavy loads uphill, downhill, and across rivers in the cold wind or scorching sun, which is very physically demanding. It takes about 21 to 30 days to complete the journey.

From mid-autumn to late spring, the trails are mostly covered with snow, making it difficult to walk due to the severe cold. Hikers can only visit from July to September. A mountaineering permit is required to enter the trail. The number of places to enter the mountain every day is limited. It is best to apply six months in advance to avoid being unable to go as scheduled.

When my husband Zheng Zheng entered the university in Taiwan, he loved mountain climbing. He once entered the mountains alone from Dongpu, passed the Badong Pass, and climbed Yushan. Once when it was getting dark, he got lost in the mountains. In a panic, he knelt down and did the first thing in his life. After praying, you can calmly judge the direction and return to the way you came. This wonderful episode not only led him out of trouble, but also attracted him to accept Jesus Christ as his Savior and Lord a few years later.

After entering the semiconductor industry in California's Silicon Valley, he lived a busy nine-to-nine career, but deep down in his heart, the mountains and forests still called him. In the summer of 2015, after half a year of preparation, I carried my backpack alone and walked alone in the wilderness for 17 days, completing the John Muir Trail from north to south. During the trip, he met many families traveling with their children, the youngest of whom was still an infant. At that time, he looked forward to taking his son, me, and friends who were interested in traveling back to the trail to experience it together. The majestic beauty of God’s creation.

The starting point of the journey

After returning to Silicon Valley, California, Zhongjin shared his wish with a church group. Everyone looked at each other and said they would reconsider. After a few weeks, two excited but worried families finally signed up for him. Together with our family of three, we formed a climbing team consisting of three pairs of middle-aged parents and five children aged ten to fifteen years old. Except for Chong Jin, everyone else in the team is a novice backpacker.

Considering factors such as the physical strength of most people and the number of days off work they can take, Zhongjin decided to take everyone on a relatively easy section of the entire trail: walking north from Ansel Adams Wilderness in six days. Eighty kilometers into Yosemite Valley.

Five months before the trip, everyone started buying supplies and exercising.

The more streamlined items a backpacker carries, the lighter the burden will be on their shoulders. How to decide what items are really needed is a big challenge for modern people who are accustomed to relying on a large amount of supplies on daily basis.

Paradoxically, our first step away from civilization and into the world of mountains and forests still requires a large amount of "purchasing." Backpack, hiking boots, trekking poles, water filter, bear-proof can for food storage, warm clothes, shovel, garbage bag, rain gear, mosquito repellent, first aid kit, cooking utensils, dehydrated food, tableware... As the departure date approaches, the living room of the three families looks more and more like a mountaineering supplies store.

Most of the cooking ingredients carried by hikers need to be dehydrated to reduce weight and prevent spoilage. You can buy a variety of dehydrated food at many mountaineering supplies stores, which can be eaten by adding hot water. It is also easy to make it yourself with a food dehydrator. In early May, Chongjin started making dehydrated vegetables, fruits, cooked meat, etc. for the team. During that time, our house was filled with the heat and noise from the food dehydrator day and night, as well as the strange stuffy smell from the evaporation of the water in the ingredients, just like a small food factory.

Building physical strength is also a top priority. The three families have made an appointment to go to Mission Peak near their residence once a week as much as possible starting from April to exercise their leg strength. But I failed to keep my promise and was busy every day. I only went there three times and never reached the top. Insufficient physical training made me suffer a lot after the actual road and dragged down the progress of the whole team.

▲Spent more than a month making homemade dehydrated food before traveling.

Backpacker Diary 2016

7/2

The three families drove to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park to gather. In order to reduce the weight of the backpack, I decided to carry food for four days first and put the rest of the food into iron boxes for backpackers to store supplies. I plan to walk back here on the afternoon of July 6, take out the stored food, take a shower at the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, and then continue walking.

After putting away the food, we took the shuttle bus (YARTS) to Mammoth Lakes (Mammoth Lakes), which is 2,402 meters above sea level, and checked into a local hotel. In the evening, everyone gathered together to eat pizza and fried chicken. After the meal, the children went to the hotel swimming pool to play in the water. The next morning, we were about to leave the civilized world for a while. Except for the team leader who was about to re-enter, everyone else could not hide their uneasiness despite their excitement.

▲Sleeping in the wild, everyone used rocks as chairs and enjoyed dinner in the cold wind while it was still dark.

7/3

After enjoying a hearty breakfast at the hotel and praying together, we put on our backpacks and set off.

In addition to their own belongings, the three fathers also have to share food. Each of their backpacks weighs more than 20 kilograms. The mothers’ luggage is about ten kilograms. The children are responsible for carrying their own clothes, sleeping bags, sleeping mats, drinking water, etc. Personal backpacks also weigh about ten kilograms.

▲Xu Baishu was fishing in the cold lake, hoping to add food to everyone. Although nothing was caught, fishing in a mountain lake was still an unforgettable experience.

Following the information provided by the hotel counter, the group went to the stop sign on the street to wait for the bus bound for the trailhead. Ten minutes later, a bus stopped. We picked up our bags and got on the bus. The young driver told us that he had finished work and was driving the empty bus back to the ski resort where the bus started. He saw us waiting for the bus at the wrong stop. , kindly gave us a ride. If he hadn't come to the rescue, we don't know how long we would have had to wait.

Arrive at the ski resort, transfer to another bus to Agnew meadows at an altitude of 2,536 meters, and set off from the River Trail trailhead.

Carrying a heavy luggage, in less than an hour, I was already faltering as I walked the slowest way. Children and fathers have relatively good physical strength, but gradually become exhausted after noon. We originally planned to walk 16 kilometers on the first day, but we only walked 10 kilometers until 5 pm. It was impossible to reach the planned destination before dark, so we spent the night on the lawn next to a waterfall.

After using up all my remaining strength to set up the tent, I fell down on the sleeping mat. My teammates used rocks as tables and were busy filtering water and cooking dinner. I knew I should get up to help, but every joint in my body could not move. Get up.

▲The blue sky and white clouds are reflected on the bright mirror-like lake.

7/4

The second day in the wilderness. The progress fell behind yesterday and the original plan has been disrupted. The team leader decided to let everyone relax. Today we will only walk five kilometers and camp by Qiandao Lake, where we can fish, play in the water, and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the lake and mountains that can only be reached by sweating.

We arrived at Qiandao Lake at around three in the afternoon. Several hikers in their twenties were lying on the big rocks by the lake to bask in the sun. We followed the lakeside trail to find a camping spot. We were a little confused: the scenery here is beautiful, the water is convenient, the grass is flat, and you can fish and eat food. Why are there no tents? ? "Maybe it's still early and there are more people in the evening." We guessed.

After searching around, we selected a spot with a good view and privacy to set up camp. Unexpectedly, we heard howling all over the place. A swarm of small black mosquitoes attacked us from time to time. The children's hands and feet quickly turned into red bean popsicles, and the adults were also in serious trouble. Mosquito spray didn't work at all and a tube of mosquito bite ointment was passed around.

▲There are often single-plank bridges built with tree trunks over the rapid water along the way.

"Do you want to change campsites?" Everyone looked at each other in confusion. Although we didn’t go far that day, it was mostly uphill. Everyone was tired, so we had to grit our teeth and live with the mosquitoes that became more and more numerous as the night went on. During dinner that day and breakfast the next day, mosquitoes that smelled the scent would fall into the rice bowl if they were not careful. The group had no choice but to turn a blind eye. Insects are rich in protein, so just add them to your meal!

The sun is gradually setting in the west, and there are still no other hikers camping. It seems that we are the only humans spending the night here tonight.

Since we did not walk as planned, we will not be able to get food supplies as scheduled, so from now on, we need to eat sparingly at every meal. Li Hanquan and Zheng Yawen generously shared the food they brought from home, so that everyone never went hungry despite insufficient resources.

▲When wading across a river, the children always lead the way.

7/5

This morning, we officially set foot on the John Muir Trail from the John Muir Trail Junction.

Single-plank bridges began to appear on this day. Zhu Jiaying and I are both afraid of heights. The first bridge is not high, we can handle it. But the next step was a single-plank bridge over a fast-flowing, rocky stream. Jiaying's husband, Xu Baishu, helped his wife carry her backpack and led her across the river with a cane. I want to re-enter. Don't pay attention to me. I stare at the bridge alone for a long time. My teammates all crossed the river, and I asked them, "What will happen if I fall?" There was silence on the other side. "Forget it, I'll just walk across the river." I picked up my walking stick and walked toward the river valley. The group of relatives and friends on the other side of the river all started to dissuade me, saying that the rocks were covered with moss and I would definitely fall into the water and maybe be washed away by the flood. It makes sense, I gave up the idea of taking the water route, but I can't stay on this side of the river forever.

"Okay, here I come." I stepped onto the single-plank bridge, looking away from the rocky rapids and focusing on every step I took. When we arrived on the other side, we received a hero's welcome. I guess my teammates breathed a sigh of relief and could finally move on. After that, single-plank bridges still appeared from time to time, but Jiaying and I were no longer so frightened.

▲After another day of walking, the sky was getting dark, and the group waited for nightfall to enjoy the starry sky.

On this day, everyone also started dropping things. While resting on the road, my son Zheng Yuwen found that his camera seemed to be forgotten by the river where he stopped to get water. Without saying a word, Han Quan immediately took Chongjin's backpack. Zhongjin turned around and ran back to the river half an hour away to help his son find a camera. About ten minutes after Zhongjin walked back, Yuwen realized that his camera was at his feet. Everyone's first reaction was: "Hurry up and call Zhongjin to come back." But they soon discovered that this method would not work because of the mountain. The signal there was very weak, and Zhongjin didn't bring his mobile phone with him at all, so Bai Shu and Han Quan ran back to catch up to Chongjin regardless of their fatigue. Twenty minutes later, the three men came back out of breath.

After such a fuss, a lot of time was wasted, so everyone immediately put on their backpacks and left. I walked at the end of the team and looked at this group of members of the Lord who had known each other for many years. Although the mountains were cold, my heart felt warm.

In the evening we finally arrived at Marie Lake Junction, which is 3,057 meters high, and set up camp for the night. When Zhongjin was taking care of the tent, two men who looked a little older walked up to him and immediately asked, "Do you take photos?" Zhongjin replied, "Yes!" The two men then asked, "Which camera do you use?" "Zhongjin looked at them suspiciously, and they suddenly laughed and showed Zhongjin's camera from behind. It turned out that when Zhongjin was looking at the map, he put the camera on the rock and forgot to take it with him.

The two men said they knew the owner of the camera must be heartbroken about losing the beautiful scenery he had captured along the way, so they looked for clues from the photos, saw the children in the group photo from a distance, and hurriedly returned the camera.

While cooking, a middle-aged woman and a lanky young boy came over to chat. They planned to walk south to Mount Whitney. It was very special to see three little boys of about ten years old running and playing on such a high mountain, so they came to chat with us. Afterwards, the young boy gave the children a large bag of candy.

Tonight, Jin made another pot of spicy bean soup and mac and cheese. The children ate one bite after another in the cold wind, praising them and saying that they had never had such a delicious dinner.

Spend the night on a mountain more than 3,000 meters high, and the starry sky is so dazzling that no priceless jewelry can compare with it.

▲Step from the snow onto the rocky steep slope, overcome your fatigue and move forward step by step.

7/6

It's been a difficult day. We climbed over mountains and ridges, climbed towering rock piles, and reached the highest point of the trip—Donahue Pass at an altitude of 3,370 meters. Zhongjin slowed down and stayed with me. I kept shouting that I couldn’t hold on any longer, but I kept walking step by step. Although it took longer than other hikers, I finally reached the top.

The snow on the top of the mountain is not melting, and the children are happily having a snowball fight. The trail was covered in ice and snow, so we had to stumble across a large patch of snow.

While wading across the river, Han Quan slipped and fell. His knee hit a rock, and a swelling as big as an egg immediately appeared on his calf. Fortunately, his wife Yawen supported his backpack from behind, otherwise the backpack would have been filled with water and his clothes would have been soaked.

Before the trip, the adults were very worried about the children's lack of physical strength. However, since the trip, although the five children occasionally complained about being tired, they always walked at the front of the team and chatted while walking. I often lose sight of them within five minutes of breaking camp.

▲After passing Donahue Pass, a large area of unmelted snow covered the trail. Although we walked carefully on the snow, we still stumbled.

7/7

The last day of the trip. We started from Lyell Canyon and walked 17 kilometers along the crystal clear Lyell Fork. We returned to the Tuonam Grassland where our cars and food were stored, and decided to end there. journey. This is the furthest we've ever gone.

Everyone was given two cereal bars at lunch, and nearly all the food was gone. By afternoon break, only a small apple remained. Everyone cut it into twelve slices to share, it was especially sweet.

▲Cross the grassland along the clear tributary of Raiyur, and enjoy the beautiful scenery that can only be reached by walking hard on your feet.

When Zhongjin was climbing alone in 2015, he met a pastor from Alaska. The pastor sat on the ground, cut an apple into thin slices, shared it with the travelers passing by, and prayed for everyone. Chongjin said it was the sweetest and juiciest apple he had ever eaten in his life. The pastor seemed to be the little boy who generously shared five loaves and two fish when Jesus preached.

快要抵達草原時，我和重進遇到一位步道名稱²　為「野烏龜」的六十餘歲男子。他四月中就從墨西哥出發，計劃隻身走完太平洋山脊步道，路途中因為哥哥病逝，曾離開步道參加喪禮，然後回來繼續行走。他提起病逝的哥哥時，眼中閃過一絲憂傷，但他說，路還是得往前走。這是他第三度踏上約翰‧繆爾步道。

In the evening, we arrived at Tuonami Grassland and completed the fifty kilometers of wilderness journey. When Bai Shu, Jiaying and I left the trail, two passing tourists congratulated us cheerfully. We only smiled tiredly in return, which was a bit rude, but at that time we had so many emotions and we didn't know how to react.

We went to the supply station to take out the stored food, got into the tarnished car that had been parked on the roadside for nearly a week, and headed to a nearby grocery store. Children happily sat on the roadside enjoying ice cream. Mr. Wild Turtle, whom we met in the afternoon, also came to buy food and waved to us holding a large cardboard box. His journey continues.

That night we stayed at the Tuonami Grassland Campground, which is only for backpackers. We took a shower, used the flush toilet, and looked in the mirror for the first time in five days. After passing the tent houses that I thought were very simple in the past, I found those houses so comfortable that I wished I could break in and fall on the bed to take a deep sleep.

▲ Finally reaching the highest point of the trip, the Donahue Pass at an altitude of 3,370 meters, the group happily raised their canes.

The journey continues

During the journey, I asked myself more than once: Why should I leave the comfortable civilized world and ask for trouble to become a backpacker? You can't take a shower (unless you don't mind taking an open-air cold bath), you have to dig a hole in a remote place to go to the toilet, you have to take your garbage out of the mountain with you, your shoulders are bruised by the straps of a large backpack, and small black mosquitoes come and go without a trace. Hunted, rationed food, blisters on the soles of the feet….

With such inconvenience, why are so many people willing to pick up backpacks and embark on trails around the world?

We met many backpackers on the way and found that everyone had different reasons for embarking on the trail, and their experiences and experiences on the trail were also different. (See box and two other articles in this unit.)

This is the first time in my life that I have walked into the mountains with my feet and been embraced by the natural beauty created by God. I have spent day and night with friends I have known for many years. We help each other regardless of appearance, share food and resources, understand each other's weaknesses, and adjust our itineraries at any time. Although they only walked 50 kilometers and failed to reach the planned destination, the teammates had no regrets.

In the wilderness, people will soon realize their insignificance: the weather, road conditions, whether they will encounter wild animals, the physical strength of themselves and their companions, how far they can go that day... none of them can be expected, but as long as they keep their feet firmly on, If you move forward step by step, you can usually reach a certain destination.

John Muir once said, "Wherever we go in the mountains, or indeed in any of God's wild places, we find far more than we seek." fields, we find far more than we seek.)

My teammates were already excitedly planning their next backpacking trip.

Beautiful memories and harvests engraved in life

Responses from the John Muir Trail Backpacking Trip

‧ Xu Shaofei (the only girl on this trip, fifteen years old): "I never thought that my parents would be willing to participate in this mountain hike. They are not like this kind of people." On the last day of the trip, after walking alone in the grassland for forty minutes, she said: "It was the most unforgettable time for me. It was silent and peaceful, which allowed me to wholeheartedly enjoy the natural beauty around me." "It was really surprising to see wild flowers, green trees, and white snow at the same time on the top of the mountain. The lakes in the mountains, The stream is crystal clear, something I have never seen in my daily life."

‧ Shao Fei’s father Xu Baishu: “My wife and I were not very keen on outdoor activities in the past. This time we took our children into the wilderness together. One of the reasons is that we hope that our children will put down their electronic products, engage in challenging activities, and hone their will. Strength and physical strength. I often feel very small during the journey, but I know how to enjoy all things God has created more than I have in the past few decades, and I can better appreciate the humility that God wants us to learn.”

‧ Xu Shaorui (11 years old): "It is a great achievement to be able to overcome all kinds of obstacles and complete difficult challenges. This is a precious memory that is once in a lifetime." "Even if you think you can't survive, never give up. "

‧ Zheng Yuwen (11 years old), Li Baicheng (10 years old): "When climbing the steep mountain, I felt so tired and wanted to go home. However, when I climbed to the highest point of the trip - Donahue Pass, I was so excited."

‧ Li Baiju (15 years old): "I miss the food in the mountains very much. When I am exhausted, I sit in the wild and taste simply cooked dehydrated food. No delicacies from the mountains and sea can compare with it."

Note 1: The Pacific Crest Trail extends from Canada to Mexico, with a total length of approximately 4,286 kilometers, passing through 25 national forests and seven national parks along the way. It takes four to six months to complete the entire trail.
Note 2: Many backpackers give themselves “trail names”. Introduce yourself on the trail by your trail name only.

References:
‧ The Complete Guide to the John Muir Trail http://johnmuirtrail.org
‧ Backpacker http://backpacker.com
‧ National Park Service www.nps.gov
‧ Guide to the John Muir Trail, by Thomas Winnett, Wilderness Press

Author profile