There is another sky on the other side of the water

Visit Venice and Padua

Photography/Zhou Lanhui

▲The square in front of the Golden Church. (Pictures taken from the Internet)

His eyes greedily scanned every inch of the mural inlaid with gold foil on the top.
─I have to admit that beauty is a great shock!

Venice covers an area approximately the size of New York's Central Park. The island is dotted with countless ingenious and amazing churches and buildings, among which the splendid St. Mark's Basilica is the most representative. On an afternoon filled with the winter sun in February, I was walking in Piazza San Marco in front of the church. Behind me was an old cafe with crystal chandeliers (it was said to be the favorite of literati in the 19th century, Lord Byron). , a place where Dickens lingered). A waiter wearing a black three-piece suit stood in front of him politely and greeted in English: "Hello, madam, would you like a cup of coffee?" My intuition told me that this cup of coffee must not be cheap, but How could we easily give up the invitation to have a drink in the most romantic square in Europe, which Napoleon called the "most beautiful living room" in Europe?

Cultural experience in coffee

Follow the waiter's lead and formally take a seat in the "extended store" of the coffee shop. In addition to the "main course" latte, the waiter brought a water bottle, a water glass, and two sugar packets, and placed the complete set on the dining table. It looks like there is an "ordering" structure. After calculation, a cup of coffee costs about 13 US dollars. Although it is a bit more expensive, I told myself that I cannot calculate it based on the superficial price alone, because it contains many "ingredients". When I drink this cup, I also drink history, culture, art, and humanities... Putting aside Italy People do not play by the rules, traffic delays, frequent strikes, etc., etc., etc., the main reason why Italy attracts me is that in addition to its beautiful natural landscape, it also inherits a strong artistic and cultural atmosphere.

After drinking coffee, remember to use the restroom. You know, "paying the water bill" in this tourist resort is not cheap! Do not believe? The last time you went to a public toilet, you had to pay 1.5 euros, which is 2.5 yuan in U.S. dollars. If you change it to Taiwan dollars, you can go to 7-11 and buy a bento, and you can still find it! There is no choice but to go out and "just do as the guest does."

▲At the Venice Carnival, foreign tourists dressed in costumes can be seen everywhere.

A chance encounter at the carnival

In addition to admiring the people passing by and the pigeons wandering around, it also happened to be the famous annual Carnival in Venice. From time to time, you can see many costumed people wearing gorgeous retro clothes and full or half-face masks, posing in various attractive poses. I curiously asked K (she is an American friend who warmly welcomed me in Venice. She has lived on the island for four years and speaks fluent Italian): "Where do these people come from?" She replied: "Most of them They are all from France." No wonder, judging from the decorations, they really have a strong luxurious flavor of France in the 16th century. What’s amazing is that I never encountered a scene of “colliding shirts” every time I came and went! This shows that these players are really "playing a lot"!

▲A mask with a high price – 10,900 euros.

It was obvious that K considered himself a Venetian and was quite dissatisfied with these tourists who came here to enjoy the carnival and disturb the peace, so he deliberately took me to avoid the main routes and find some quiet water alleys and small bridges to travel through. There are so many alleys and bridges in Venice that only an old horse like K, who knows his way around, knows how to navigate them. Because of this, I just missed the grand event and had no chance to meet. Speaking of which, I still feel a little regretful. After all, tourists like me want to join in the fun.

▲Mass Rapid Transit—Gondola.

▲Authentic Venetian food can only be enjoyed by an insider leading the way.

However, following K, I also experienced the human touch that many locals enjoy. For example: K suggested that I take a short trip across the river in a Gondola for only 50 euros. In addition to saving time on walking, I could also experience the feeling of standing on the boat and rocking. I secretly speculated that if I went to ride a gondola specially designed to carry tourists (the kind with gorgeous decoration and the gondola driver singing love songs), I thought that K might break up with me! In addition, when it comes to eating in Venice, you need to know how to find the right way. K took me to a shop that specializes in southern food (generally speaking, the further south you go in Italy, the cheaper and more delicious the food becomes) to buy a particularly delicious cheese. Well, having an expert lead the way makes the experience completely different.

Shocking beauty

In addition to satisfying the appetite of the stomach, spiritual food must also be supplied. We made an appointment on a Sunday to attend the evening mass at St. Mark’s Church. Perhaps because the church was declining, there were only about thirty congregants in the entire cathedral, and most of them were elderly. In short, it is nothing like the long queues of tourists during the day! In this auditorium, which is called the "Golden Church", I can't understand the Italian (or Latin) spoken by the priest anyway. My eyes greedily scanned every inch of the mural inlaid with gold foil on the top - I have to admit, it is beautiful. It’s a great shock! It’s no wonder that when God built the tabernacle, he planned it in detail and selected talents and materials, simply because He is a God who cares about beauty and unbeautifulness.In this gorgeous space, I can't help but pray to God in my heart: "Lord, use me, use me, use me to create surprising works to praise You! Glory to You! Because You are worthy of all the glory!"

▲Interior of the Scrovegni Chapel. (Image source: http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/eng/index_e.htm)

legendary immortal paintings

Looking up at the ceiling of the church always reminds people of the painter Giotto (1267-1337)1, especially the combination of blue and gold in Giotto's colors, which makes people fascinated and intoxicated. I really wanted to see Giotto's works. It just so happened that Giotto's most representative frescoes are in the Scrovegni Chapel, located in Padua, about 30 minutes by train from Venice. In town. (Many travelers who know the market will choose to stay in Padua and then take the train to visit Venice Island to save on the more expensive hotel expenses on the island.) K and I both like Giotto very much. K even told me that we like Giotto. Giotto was better than Michelangelo (1475-1564), so he was happy to accompany me to Padua. As for me, I like Giotto's painting style - simple, tranquil, dignified yet kind.

It's better to choose a date than to hit it. Fortunately, February is not the peak tourist season, so you can visit the chapel without making a reservation in advance. Italians spare no effort in protecting monuments and art, and this is clearly demonstrated in this small chapel! In order to protect the paintings, viewers must adjust their body temperature to a certain temperature in the waiting room before going in to view the authentic murals. The staff not only limits the number of visitors in each batch, but also limits the visiting time - only fifteen people at a time. minute.

This situation is reminiscent of a restaurant in Florence called "Three Benches" (due to store restrictions, it can only accommodate three benches). This restaurant is famous for its white truffle, which is known as the king of delicacies in the world. Foodies rush to dine here. Of course, if you want to eat, you have to make a reservation first. Although some people say that Italy relies on the lingering shadow of its ancestral heritage, but honestly speaking, Italy is a nation that knows how to regard art as "truffles" and cherishes and respects cultural antiquities. In comparison, today's China The nation is eager for quick success and instant benefits, and can actually destroy priceless roots for the sake of superficial construction. What a difference.

▲Giotto’s masterpieces: Jesus and Judas (left), The Birth of the Holy Child (right).

(Image source: http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/eng/index_e.htm)

Finally it was time to enter the chapel. Giotto used storytelling techniques to present the gospel of biblical texts in the form of paintings. The high ceiling and surrounding walls narrated three themes respectively: "Virgin Mary", "The Life of Jesus" and "The Last Judgment". . How I wish that time could condense and I could take my time and not miss any detail. However, knowing that the time is limited, in those short fifteen minutes, one must face Giotto without any choice and concentration. That's right, good works of art should be treated with a good attitude. From the perspective of a visitor, it's better than going to see Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel frescoes in the Vatican - that kind of scene where people are crowded and shoulder to shoulder. So much better!

It is recommended that when you go to Venice, in addition to enjoying the scenery around the island, after seeing the majestic St. Mark's Basilica and drinking coffee in the square, don't forget to leave half a day and travel lightly to the historic site in Padua. Grosvenor Chapel. Although the "pattern" of the two seems to be different, they are both telling the same "theme"─In the field of art, only by humbling oneself and turning one's sights to the Supreme Creator can one elicit the highest admiration and be so beautiful that one's heart will be drawn...

Note
1. Giotto (1267-1337), an Italian painter and architect, is known as the father of European painting and the founder of the Renaissance. Giotto broke through the rigid forms of Byzantine art. He was the first painter to paint a deep space on a flat space. After him, Renaissance art was born. 2. Truffles, also known as "diamonds on the table", are very picky about the growth environment. They will not be able to grow as long as there is a slight change in sunlight, water or soil pH. It is a very shy fungus that hides in the soil and does not dare to show itself. You have to use the sensitive nose of a dog or pig to find it. It is one of the most expensive ingredients in Europe, so it is highly praised by many chefs.

Author profile

Zhou Lanhui is from Taiwan and now lives in Boston. A full-time artist who loves color and painting, he uses personal symbols to tell stories about his relationship with God, humans and nature. I like good friends, good food, writing, drinking afternoon tea, and listening to jazz. When you have money, you travel and watch good shows; when you don’t have money, you take walks and daydream. Taste life with your heart and enjoy life seriously. He was an artist-in-residence at Boston University, an artist-in-residence at Donghua University in Taiwan, and the winner of the 2007 Guggenheim Painting Creation Award.